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Friday, February 16, 2007

Kozhikode




Arabs and Chinese met here in medieval trade, exchanging spices, coir and timber. In 1498,Vasco Da Gama to landed here at Kappad Beach, heralding the advent of Portuguese colonization in India. A small stone monument at Kappad commemorates his landing but that beach has not quite been developed into the major tourist destination one might expect.
Though Kozhikode it still the most important city in northern Malabar, don’t expect to see the bustle of trade that brought adventurers like Vasco here.

There is however much to see and do in this city of friendly folk. As for its name it derives from the words koyil ( palace ) and kotta ( fort ). The city was once surrounded by the fort built by the Zamorin, the ruler of Calicut, who encouraged trade with Arab traders by giving special concessions.


Though the local called it Kozhikode for the Arabs it was kalikat; for the Chinese, Kalifo; and for Europeans, Calicut. The British then immoratalised the name by calling the locally produced cloth ‘ calico’ Start with mithai theravu, literally Sweet Street, the busiest shopping strip in the city packed with sweetmeat stalls.


Don’t miss the famous ‘ Calicut Halwa’ that’s black or brown, and very very sweet. Also famous are ‘Calicut Chips’ banana chips that have been deep-friend in coconut oil. This street is not just for those with a sweet toot. There are also dozens of textiles and jewellery shops, as well as the odd bookshop. Most shops are open until 9 pm.


Mananchira Square


The former courtyard of the Zamorin and currently the heart of the city, has the Town Hall and the Public Library. The presence of temples mosques and churches here suggest the cultural plurality of the region. The 15th century Kuttichara Mosque, or Mishkal Masjid, was paartally burnt down by the Portuguese in 1510 but is still architecturally striking, and sports a traditional keralite pagoda – like roof. You’ll also find here on the banks of a large pond, one of Calicut’s oldest buildings the Commonwealth Trust Office built in the traditional Kerala style of Mangalore tiles and teak. The pond was once the place tank of king Mana Vikrama the Zamorin unceremoniously deposed by Da Gama.


Timber town


Just 6 km outside town is Lallai once the bustling centre of Calicut’s timber trade. Kallai is believed to have been the largest such trading centre in Asia exporting precious Malabar teak to distant shores. Though some timber trade still takes place kallai is. Alas a pale shadow of its past it’s still a quaint place though. Where you can catch sight of lumbermen rolling logs of timber. If you can get on to the old iron bridge over the kallai river you’re guaranteed a fine view and the best vantage point for your camera.


Were to stay and eat


Taj Residency

Phone No : 0495 – 2765354

Tariff : Rs 2200 – 3000


Beach Heritage Inn.

Phone No : 0495 – 2762055 / 57

Tariff : 1200 – 1400.


Malabar Palace

Phone No : 0495 – 2721511 / 17

Tariff : Rs 800 -2350

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